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Kashmiri
Shawls
Passing
a fine shahtoosh shawl through a ring.
There are three fibers from which the Kashmiri shawls are made-
wool, Pashmina and shahtoosh. The prices of three cannot be
compared woolen shawls being within the reach of the
most modest budget, and Shahtoosh being a once-in-a-lifetime
purchase. Woolen shawls are popular because of the embroidery
Worked on them, which is a special to Kashmir. Both embroidery
and the type of wool used causes differences in price. Wool
woven in Kashmir is raffel and is 100% pure. Many kinds of embroidery
are worked on shawls sozni or needlework
is generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. Motifs
usually abstract designs or stylised paisleys and flowers are
worked in one or two, occasionally three colours, all subdued.
Another type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery; motifs
are well-known flower design finely worked in concentric rings
of chain stitch.
Pashina is unmistakable for its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun
from the hair of the ibex found at 14,000 ft above the sea level,
although pure pashmina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought
down by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool.
Shahtoosh, the legendary ring shawl is incredible
for its lightness, softness and warmth. The astronomical price
it commands in the market is due to the scarcity of raw material.
High in the plateaux of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh,
at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni
or Tibetan antelope. During grazing, a few strands of the downy
hair from the throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly
collected until there are enough for a shawl. Yarn is spun either
from shahtoosh alone, or with pashmina, bringing down the cost
somewhat. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many
qualities-the yarn can be spun so skilfully as to resemble a
strand of silk. Not only are shawls made from such fine yarn
extremely expensive, they can only be loosely woven and are
too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. Unlike woolen
or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather
like dyeing gold! Its natural colour is mousy brown, and it
is, at the most, sparsely embroidered.
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